World time watches are intended to allow one to check the time in
different parts of the world. Orient's fascination with world timers goes back
many decades, to some of the brand's oldest designs, like the
world
diver and
SK.
At first, these were very simple devices, using a 24-hour bezel to allow
one to check the time against a layout of world cities manually. Later on,
smarter options popped up, like the "FE" line up, where caliber 46P
operated a 24 hour hand (which still had to be checked manually against a world
cities bezel).
However, in the early 2000s, Orient began introducing more useful
movements and traveler watches. Today we will be looking at these proper world
time and GMT watches.
The following table contains the different movements produced by Orient
that included a functional 24-hour disk or hand. For each caliber, you can get
an indication of the movement code (that is also part of specific watch
references) and the sub-brand in which it was used: "regular" Orient,
Orient Star, or Royal Orient.
Caliber |
Code |
Launch Year |
Used in |
Jewels |
Hack-ing |
Hand Wind |
Seconds Indicator |
Date Indicator |
24 Hour |
46L |
FB |
2003 |
ROYAL/ STAR |
21 |
yes |
yes |
center seconds |
pointer @ 9:00 |
Disk |
46T |
FL |
2003 |
ROYAL |
23 |
yes |
yes |
sub seconds @ 9:00 |
pointer @ 6:00 |
Disk |
46K |
FA |
2003 |
ORIENT/ STAR |
21 |
no |
no |
center seconds |
pointer @ 6:00 |
Disk |
46H |
EY |
2007 |
ORIENT |
23 |
no |
no |
sub seconds @ 6:00 |
pointer @ 9:00 |
Disk |
48H |
FZ |
2008 |
STAR |
23 |
yes |
yes |
sub seconds @ 6:00 |
pointer @ 9:00 |
Disk |
40P |
DJ |
2010 |
STAR |
22 |
yes |
yes |
center seconds |
window @ 3:00 |
Hand |
48K |
DH |
2012 |
ORIENT |
21 |
yes |
yes |
center seconds |
subdial @ 6:00 |
Disk |
40H |
JC |
2013 |
STAR |
24 |
yes |
yes |
subdial @ 6:00 |
subdial @ 9:00 |
Disk |
The earlier movements (before caliber 40P of 2010) used a 24 hours disk
that was synchronized with the time; however – as opposed to the simple 24-hour
hand of caliber 46P – the wearer would be able to adjust the disk to a specific
time zone, in half-hour intervals. This way, you could use the central hour as
your local time, and the disk to check the time in other places. The typical design
would also have a world city bezel that could be aligned with the disk so that
you could tell the time in every city.
Here are some photos from a 2003 catalog, showing these early world
timers:
A GMT watch would typically differ from a world timer in that it shows
one additional time zone, allowing a much clearer observation of the time in
that time zone compared to world timers.
Orient's first true GMT watch was introduced in 2010, featuring an
adjustable 24-hour hand, in the shape of caliber 40P. The beautiful watch
housing this movement became an instant classic, and received the much-inspired
nickname "Star Seeker". Over time, a number of different watches used
this caliber:
·
References WZ0011DJ (shown at the top of this post) and
WZ0021DJ, the original star seeker GMTs with black and white dials respectively,
with an internal rotating 24 hour bezel, a steel bracelet and a "cyclops"
over the date window.
·
Ref. WZ0031DJ, with a black
dial and leather strap.
·
WZ0041DJ and WZ0051DJ, introduced
in 2011 with black and white dials respectively, were very similar to the 2010
release, however without the cyclops.
·
WZ0061DJ and WZ0071DJ, introduced
in 2014, featured a simpler design and let go of the internal rotating bezel.
The first featured a black dial, while the latter had a beautiful blue dial,
both on a steel bracelet.
·
And then last but not
least, came the limited edition WZ0081DJ, similar to the 2014 release, and
featuring a fantastic grey dial and brown leather strap.
In-between the "DJ" models, Orient also presented a new line
of world timer style of watches, the "JC" line-up. References
WZ0011JC, WZ0021JC, and WZ0031JC featured black, blue, and white (or rather,
ivory) dials, respectively. More variants were later introduced in 2017.
Since 2017, Orient did not introduce new World Timer or GMT models.
Isn't it time for a new, caliber F6-based GMT watch from Orient? Many fans of the
brand would surely love one! For now, we'll have to wait and see.
Some of the data in the table of movements was taken from Dan's (watchmandan.com)
very useful list of movements. Photos of the 2003 catalog were taken from the
archive of Yeoman
Seiko's fantastic old blog. Other photos are from official Orient publications.
Komentar
Posting Komentar